Brewing a Better Future: Shanthi’s Journey in Sustainable Coffee Farming
For millions of farming families, coffee is a lifeline.
This is true for farmers In the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, which produces 12% of the national Arabica yield. Most of them are smallholder coffee cultivators that rely on natural farming practices. Coffee cultivation in the state spans 88,956 hectares of land (as of 2020-21), and the main coffee-growing region stretches across the Eastern Ghats mountain range, where generations of tribal farmers have nurtured the land.
Challenges Faced by Smallholder Coffee Farmers
Unfortunately, the reality for these farmers in the region is stark. Despite rising global demand for coffee, tribal smallholder farmers struggle to see the benefits as they grapple with increasing challenges posed by climate change. In 2023, the farmers TechnoServe works with experienced a yield drop of nearly 40% due to unpredictable weather patterns, untimely rainfall, and severe storms, which have compounded the difficulties they already face.
How TechnoServe is Supporting Coffee Farmers in India
Over the last five years, TechnoServe India has supported over 10,000 tribal coffee farmers in Andhra Pradesh, 38% of whom are women, through farmer organizations. Our focus on training and post-harvest infrastructure, such as eco-friendly wet mills, pulping centers, and cupping labs, has driven progress in sustainable coffee production. Additionally, TechnoServe is enhancing market connectivity for smallholder farmers to secure fair and premium prices, ultimately increasing their incomes.
Empowering Women Coffee Farmers like Shanthi
Shanthi exemplifies this change. Once, she viewed coffee as just a crop her family cultivated to sell. They harvested their cherries, dried them, and accepted whatever price was offered by the intermediaries in the market. For years, this was the norm, and it seemed like the only way forward.
With support from TechnoServe and the establishment of a cupping lab at the Manyathorana Farmer Producer Company (FPC) in January-March 2023, Shanthi is not just growing coffee. She’s tasting, evaluating, and making sure it meets specialty coffee standards. This hands-on experience has completely changed how Shanthi and other women farmers view their crops—no longer just a commodity but a craft.
How Women are Shaping the Future of Coffee
This shift marks a turning point for Shanthi and other tribal women farmers, who are now actively participating in the coffee value chain by experiencing their coffee’s rich aromas and nuances firsthand.
Before the cupping lab, many farmers, including Shanthi, had never tasted or understood the quality of their coffee. The concept was unfamiliar. “We sold fresh or semi-dried cherries without knowing how it would taste,” Shanthi recalled. With hands-on training in cupping, farmers have learned to distinguish between high and low-quality coffee, understanding how proper post-harvest practices could significantly impact market prices.
“Mixing ripe and unripe cherries lowers the quality of my coffee,” Shanthi explained. “Now, I know that specialty coffee—made from selectively picked ripe cherries—fetches higher prices.” Her newfound knowledge empowers her to negotiate confidently, ensuring her hard work translates into better earnings.
Building Skills and Community
Shanthi’s journey extends beyond her farm. She actively participates in training programs, learning about post-harvest management and hygiene practices. “Not only have these trainings helped my coffee, but they’ve also improved my life at home,” she said. “I manage our expenses, save money, and even pay college fees.” With the increased income from coffee and spices production, she resumed her bachelor of science studies, a dream she had to put on hold due to financial constraints.
Her participation in the AeroPress Championship in Hyderabad in June 2024 is another testament to her growth. “I never imagined I would have the confidence to brew my own coffee and compete,” she said. Shanthi has also become a mentor, training farmers from nearby villages in coffee processing and helping them sell specialty coffees under their names.
The Manyathorana FPC has evolved from a mere buyer from smallholder farmers to a supportive partner, offering technical assistance and ensuring better prices for farmers. “Before, we produced coffee through natural farming, but lacked certification and couldn’t secure premium prices for our crop,” Shanthi explained. “Now, we’ve earned Rainforest Alliance certification, which has boosted our prices by ₹2 to ₹5 per kilogram (2.4¢ to 6¢).”
A Renewed Sense of Agency
Cupping labs have been a game-changer for Shanthi and her community, giving them a renewed sense of agency and transforming their approach to coffee production.
As Shanthi looks ahead, her aspirations are ambitious. She is pursuing certification as a barista, aiming to explore the world of specialty coffee further. She is looking to create new opportunities not only for herself but also for her community.
This International Coffee Day, let’s celebrate the resilience and creativity of farmers like Shanthi, who are transforming their challenges into opportunities. Their commitment to quality coffee goes beyond securing livelihoods; it’s about shaping a sustainable and equitable future for the coffee industry.
As we savor our next cup, let’s remember the journey it took to get there—one rooted in the hands and hearts of dedicated farmers working tirelessly to brew a better tomorrow.
